Tuesday, August 14, 2007

Rex Number 2

Hi! My name is Rex and I joined the Z. family last week. I stayed in Sarah's room until she got tired of waking up to my cries (like in this picture) at 3:30 every morning.



I'm very small and fluffy. I'm only about as big as Sarah's shoe. I like to sleep inside shoes and chew on them in the afternoons to ease the teething process.



This is me with Sarah. She takes good care of me but she doesn't have any toys, doggie sweaters or treats that I can enjoy like those fortunate puppies in America. She's teaching me English. So far we've learned 'no' and 'quiet' and 'don't go there'. Maybe I'll get a visa and come back to the states with her next year... who knows...


Wednesday, August 08, 2007

365 days

Dear readers,
In exactly one year I hope to be attending the 2008 Beijing Olympics Opening Ceremony. The only problem is I can not seem to find tickets. Perhaps if I had regular Internet access I would be able to conduct more thorough searches, but for now I was hoping that I might be able to recruit assistance from the states.

If you are able, please forward me any links you may have to travel agencies/ticket agencies who are selling the golden tickets. I'd be so thankful. I'm sorry for the shameless plug.

Monday, August 06, 2007

Mid-Service Reflection

We met as a group for language testing and mid-service reflection last week and I come back to the village excited about the coming year and comfortable in this community. I won't know how I did on the Armenian exam until after swearing-in on the 15th but I know that I've progressed given the fact that I debated gender roles on the train back from Yerevan yesterday and understood when Tatik got in a fight with my host brother over investing the apricot income in a new satelite dish this morning.

As I begin my second and final year of service to Armenia I am confident in the projects my village and I have initiated: A new community playground and recreation area, healthy life styles newspapers introducing difficult topics such as reproductive health, stress and nutrition, and event planning of a community-wide health festival in the spring. I'm also excited about the cross-sectoral work that allows me to engage in larger initiatives (Gender and Development, Public Relations and Organizational networking for NGOs in the more remote areas). Work has developed as a result of the International Outreach Camp and Green Camp I organized and participated in this summer as well. I'll find myself busy working on an after school mentorship program on environmental and health topics and guiding young civic leaders through the grant-writing process this fall.

There are some personal goals I've set that should cover my free time including running the Athens Marathon and figuring out how to care for our new family puppy, Rex. A few friends and I are starting to seriously consider how we can organize our close of service trip next August. If anyone has suggestions or tips about the Trans-Siberian railroad or would like to donate tickets to the Olympic Opening Ceremony in Beijing I'd be extremely grateful.

Monday, July 30, 2007

Summer camp review

The students who studied Civic Leadership from me at the IOC camp took a class I gave on the Youth Engaging in Service (YES) program. I taught the lessons and the camp director asked me to work with an Armenian named Ani to coordinate the program this fall. I was honored. YES provides students the opportunity to write small project proposals similar in structure to the large scale SPA grant I wrote this spring. The kids plan a project in their community and write the grant. The deadline is September 1st (the same date as our playground opening...hopefully) and then I’ll go up to Vanadzor and sit down with Ani to judge and award grant money anywhere from $10-100 to each approved applicant. I’m really excited about this project because I can’t wait to see what the IOC campers learned while in Vanadzor and I’m happy to be able to fund their projects. The reality is that if these kids want meaningful experience before entering the job market they need to practice project management skills. This grant gives them that opportunity. The money will be awarded and final project reports are due by December 30th. It will be a great way to end the year to hear about the success of young Armenian organizers.

Green Camp in the village was successful. The kids had a great time learning about plants, water, animals, the ecosystem and their personal responsibility to the environment by playing interactive games and journaling at the end of each day. Most kids whined that five days was not long enough while I danced for joy when the closing ceremony came on Friday evening. It was great for the community but it wore me out. Fortunately, the fun doesn’t end with the last round of boom-chicka-boom (the camp song). We invited 10th form students to speak to the campers about water and nature preservation and in September we hope to start an afterschool club of Green Camp graduates who will take the knowledge they gained and become mentors to the children in the kindergarten.

I think I was successful in keeping everything in order and making sure the other PCVs had a nice time with my host family. It was a 24 hour job balancing 60 people at camp all day and coming home to 19 in a five bedroom house. Somehow it worked (as most things do in Armenia). Grandma got a little grumpy by Saturday but I think that was just because the final-day BBQ/dance party kept her up too late.

The best part of our Green Camp was that it made me realize how much I’ve grown to appreciate my community. There are some very active youth (and adults) here and they take excellent care of me.

On Friday we had personal responsibility to the environment day and we did a school area clean up. Alla had the idea to organize the kids so that part of the time would be spent cleaning the area where we hope to build the playground this month. I thought I was going to get to take a day off on Sunday but Saturday night Alla came over to inform me that the YCAP group decided to begin cleaning and taking out the old fence in the playground area starting at 8 p.m. (that’s when it begins to cool off enough to emerge from the house).

We cleaned until 10:30 and then went home for some fried eggplant and salty cheese wraps. Oh how my schedule (and tastes) have changed. Fun summer nights!

Thursday, July 19, 2007

International Outreach Camp in Pictures

Camp Gugark from the stairwell window. The cafeteria is on the left and another children's camp was staying in the dorm across the square. Many a disco took place in the middle.
PCV bonding time before camp around Dominic and his guitar. Who knew that could Alex could sound so much like the Foundations (our favorite is Build me up buttercup)? Throughout camp we turned to each other for a bit of 'Team nothing' time in order to relax.

The big welcome of Armenian participants.

We were introducing participants to our home states in America. I'm introducing Ohio but look four people to my right. Who know the cardinal, carnation and buckeye could be so hilarious? What a public speaker...

The intense judging panel. We're serious about those team challenges.

I taught an optional nutrition class. The students had never seen the food pyramid before which led to an interesting discussion about the differences between whole wheat and white bread, red vs. white meat and why you can never get enough veggies. I'm wearing my shirt backwards on purpose.



On the 16th we had a camp-wide culture fair and the students in 'sharing cultures' classes made this quilt of symbols of Armenia. My favorite is the big pomegranate at the top.


Saying goodbye to tomorrow's leaders.


Onward and upward. Ani (far left) is headed to TN in a few weeks. Take good care of her America!

Wednesday, June 27, 2007

June 26 Tsnundd Shnorhavor

I got a grant for my birthday yesterday and it was the best gift a PCV could ask for. After a few edits to the proposal we'll be able to secure funding and get to work on the community contributions before construction begins in August.

Thank you for your prayers and support.

Other exciting gifts included: A lavender shirt and pant outfit size XXL, two pairs of underwear, a bra and a silk nightie, a set of seven flowered plates and a pair of gold shoes (for school of course) from the kids.

Friday, June 15, 2007

Project Proposal Deadline

Today marks the tenth month that I've lived and worked at site. The village life is nice in the summertime as everyone has plenty of work to do. We are all getting ready for the apricot harvest next week. They say there will be very little to sell but plenty to eat, which translates to days of preparing juice and jam. We'll be eating apricots by the kilo and I can't wait.

I was excited to see that the fruit stands along the side of the road started popping up last weekend too. Men and women create small tents of fresh produce and then camp out (literally) along the road until September or October. The more elaborate stands feel like small outdoor homes with everything from refrigerators and televisions to beds and flatware. One of our relatives has an especially nice business where he sells gas and fruit. I like to go and sit on the bed and eat from their stand.

Today is also the deadline for SPA submissions. I made a trip into Yerevan yesterday to finalize and turn in the village's project proposal for a new playground/outdoor recreation area. As simple as a playground sounds it's quite an undertaking and I pray that we are awarded the funds and finish the project by first bell (September 1). One of the best aspects to the grant is the 'community contribution.' No matter how much money the grant requests, 25 percent of the budget must come through some form of community contribution. In our case this includes time, energy and equipment donations in the form of: 100 decorative trees, an irrigation system (for the 100 trees), eight benches made from old school desks, four trashcans, cleaning and painting. It will be beautiful and, as optimistic as it sounds, will hopefully foster community pride and health.

Friday, June 08, 2007

Week one year two: Done

Well...approximately. After the new volunteer welcome we had our first Green Camp in Idjevan (up north). All six girls stayed with Rud and enjoyed a week of tasty food, moderately well behaved children and camp songs. The camp was organized to provide all of the coordinators from the remaining five camps this summer an opportunity to learn by doing. We served as counselors to try and figure out for ourselves how to budget, schedule and put out small fires.





Syd and I. I live up there and she just embraces the entire country as home.


The mountain group!
Rud and his angels. We took an excursion to Yerevan on Wednesday. It might have been considered inconvenient to have to stop the bus every ten km to pour water on the overheating radiator but we took it as a nice opportunity to photograph the lovely countryside and country map.



The excursion also took us past Sevanavank on the Sevan peninsula. Princess Mariam commissioned the church for a place to worship but because she was a woman she was only able to view the services through a slit window in the back. The church has a great view of the lake.

Sunday, June 03, 2007

A15 Welcome Weekend Pictures

Right below the Ohio license plate in the heart of Yerevan, Armenia.
This is hail coming down on our football game. We're tough though, it only delayed play for about 10-15 minutes.
Welcome to Armenia A15s

Almost every volunteer in country.

Thursday, May 31, 2007

Khash Bowl Spring 07 and A15 Welcome

Yesterday we played our annual Khash bowl game on the most beautiful green grassy field I've ever seen in Armenia. We played part of the first quarter before hail started raining down on our parade. We played through the pain but the North managed a victory over the south. All was forgotten after a warm shower and hot dinner. It was a truly American day with lunch at a new diner in Yerevan (the best cheeseburger in country, fries and half a bottle of Heinz ketchup) and the game. After time with the volunteers and two hours sleep we gathered at the office to bus over to historic Zvartnotz ruins to welcome the new group of enthusiastic volunteers. We waited with anticipation (I can't tell if it was more for the donuts and fresh juice or the volunteers) and cheered for the 46 A15s as they got their first glimpse of their new coworkers and majestic mount Ararat.

It's tough for us to believe that it was our group that wandered off that tour bus just one year ago. We've come a long way but all agree that it's much better being the greeters. Keep them in your prayers as they begin their training. This group is the future of our organization.

Wednesday, May 30, 2007

Thank you Aunt Carlene!

Sometimes I get packages from America and I'm not sure how the contents will be received in Armenia. There are some goods that arrive that I hoard like gold (peanut butter packets from Mrs. Wilson-thank you!*).

A couple of weeks ago I received a package with a solar powered camping shower. I wondered how it would be received but as soon as I explained how convenient it would be the family went crazy. We all decided to shower---and even my 60-year-old host mother ran out (with enthusiasm) to wash her hair. It's provided evenings of fun for more than a week now. Let the summer begin.


*I made some investments yesterday...look at the value of a jar of peanut butter in perspective to my other shopping needs:
New tennis shoes-1500AMD ($4.28)
Thai food dinner (including spring roll appetizers)- 2000AMD ($5.71)
1.5 bottle of water-180 AMD ($ .51)
DVD-2000 AMD ($5.71)

ONE JAR OF SKIPPY PEANUTBUTTER: 2880 AMD ($8.23)....AND I BOUGHT TWO! It's so worth it.




This is her actually running

So clean and so happy

School's out for summer!

The 'last bell' rang on Friday the 25th signaling the end of the school year and the beginning of summer fun in Armenia. What exactly does a health teacher do with her time off during the summer?

My mornings recently have consisted of long runs in the countryside in preparation for the Athens marathon in November. It's the coolest time of day and the most peaceful now because most people aren't in their farms or orchards until at least 7 a.m. On Tuesday I got home and was informed that I was late for grape leaf picking with the host family so we gathered our plastic bags and spent the morning in the farm collecting leaves for sale and dolma preparation (dolma is a lot like cabbage wraps but sometimes they use grape leaves).

Between final staff meetings and grant-writing preparation I've found my days pretty full. Here are some of the projects I'm looking forward to:

This summer I look forward to working on health newspapers for my eighth and ninth grade students. The idea came to me when I was thinking about ways I could get important and detailed information to the students in an appealing way. The entire year, particularly in the eighth form, my counterpart would make copies of handouts, split the class into groups, assign one student to read, and then one group member would have to be prepared to explain the reading to the rest of the class. I found the in-class reading to be a waste of teaching time so I asked if we could make copies for the students to read before they come to class. My counterpart informed me that students would never read text book material ahead of time. One day I was sitting in the classroom and I saw that the school newspaper had just been distributed. The newspaper costs 100 dram and yet almost all of my students had a copy. I wondered what would happen if I created a healthy life styles newspaper for each of the three or four themes that could serve as a text book. I could include pictures, testimonies from students who have already taken the class, important vocabulary and statistics. I think that if we’re organized and tell all of the students that they are expected to bring their healthy life styles newspaper with them to class each week we could save time reading and use class time for discussion and questions.

I realized in the end of the year review in the seventh grade class that the students don’t commit to memory any of the lessons we teach in healthy life skills. In an effort to create some sort of classroom routine for the seventh grade class I would like to create a draft healthy life skills copy book for my counterpart to reference and assign to the students. Every day when the students enter the classroom I would like for there to be a vocabulary word written on the board for them to come in and copy. They will copy the word and definition at the top of the page and thereby be occupied during the time when my counterpart is out of the classroom or completing the attendance sheet. This entire year students would come in and run around the classroom hitting one another and yelling until my counterpart entered to quiet them, but I believe that if there is a classroom procedure established from the first week of school the students will know what is expected of them from the minute the bell rings. Another important aspect to the healthy life skills curriculum for the seventh grade is self-reflection. The students spend nearly eight weeks thinking about who they are, what they hope to become and how they see their place in the world. I would like for the students to use their healthy life skills copy books to write a short (1-5 minute) journal entry at the end of each class or at home after each lesson. If the students collect their topics of study and reactions to the lessons throughout the whole year, at the end they will not only be able to remember what they did in healthy life skills, but they will be able to reflect on the progress they’ve made in character development.

In June I hope to finish translations of our the healthy life skills text book for grades 1-7. We'd like to provide the translations to the new volunteers so that their transition into the school is a little bit easier.

I am currently working with a teacher in my school to write a SPA proposal for a new playground/recreational area near the school. The June 15 deadline marks the beginning of the project timeline and we have very high hopes that we will be able to win the grant funds and finish construction by the beginning of school.

My site is hosting a summer Green Camp at the end of July. We'll study animals, plants, trees, conservation, etc... for five days with 11-13 year-olds. It'll be hot and the mosquitos will be in full force but I'm looking forward to the opportunity to bring an educational opportunity to the kids during the summer.

I plan to be a counselor for the first-ever International Outreach Camp in Armenia. I have been writing lesson plans for the civic leadership lessons and am anxious to teach community service to 'youth' ages 18-25.

A business volunteer in Vanadzor, contacted me for assistance this summer with a group of orphaned teenagers at his site. I have offered to do a short series of outreach projects related to drugs, alcohol, and HIV/AIDS for the youth.

I have a friend who is a graduate student in the village who would like to create information seminars/lessons about medicinal, culinary and endangered plants in Armenia. I’ve recruited EAI initiative members to help in the research portion of the project and we hope to write lesson plans for classroom or community seminars in July or early August.

I have applied to teach a few lessons/ lead discussions at PST 2007. I would like to continue my work as GAD Initiative co-president and member of the PC public relations committee.

Monday, April 30, 2007

Free days

The boys and I have been spending a lot of time outdoors now that the weather is nice. We went mushroom hunting on Saturday (a lifelong dream of mine) and hiking in the mountains for four hours yesterday. Here are the pictures.

Look at mine...barely visible...then look at the boy's. It took me two hours to find that puny mushroom and it took Samvel about 10 minutes to find that monster. I must need some hunting practice.
Let the sunburns begin...
That's our village in the background in the center. To the top left are the lakes where people are raising fish. The lakes are what attract our beautiful village storks...and the summer mosquitoes.
This greenery was what we walked towards for about two hours. It was disappointing when we arrived though because it was like a small marsh in between two mountains...not perfect for picnicking.

Country Image

There’s got to be a genius behind the public relations campaign in China, and right now I wish I had his job. In a recent Newsweek article (Beijing’s Big Push) Joshua Kurlantzick wrote: “China is growing more popular than ever; a major public opinion poll last year found that most ordinary Russians now think China has ‘a positive impact on the world’ and that the United States has a negative one.”

He goes on to explain that, “Over the last five years, while anti-Americanism has surged around the glove, Beijing has worked hard to ingratiate itself in Asia, Latin America and Africa. The name of this game is soft power: making China and its culture as attractive as possible to foreign publics, not just their leaders. For years, Washington has dominated the field. But Beijing’s new outreach-through foreign aid, investment, deft diplomacy, tourism and education- is starting to best American efforts. Ordinary people across the planet now view China more warmly than they do the United States. Polls taken by the Program on International Policy Attitudes and the BBC show that majority of people in most countries today consider China to be a more positive influence and less of a threat to international peace than the United States is. Such sentiments are particularly strong in the developing world.” So, I took my own informal survey in this developing country. I asked my host family which country was better, America or China, and, true to Mr. Kurlantzick’s, article, the majority answered China. Although I don’t take my research seriously (two family members said they liked America more because it’s bigger), it was interesting to read about the advance of China’s image over America’s.

To validate the public relations profession even more, Kurlantzick continues, “Beijing is already reaping the benefit of this attitudinal change in traditional, hard-power terms…All this would have been impossible a decade ago, when China seemed to have no idea how to manage its image.”

Bigger than corporate events or television spots, effective public relations of entire countries has the potential to improve the world. “The improving image of the People’s Republic is making cooperation possible in new ways and places,” Kurlantzick writes. “Of course, China’s soft-power campaign could still run off the rails…For now, however, Beijing seems to be enjoying the fruit of its impressive rebranding campaign.”

Genocide Memorial Day

Tuesday April 24 was Genocide Memorial Day. Although not everyone recognizes the Armenian tragedy as genocide there is no doubt in my mind that it occurred and that the international relations between Armenia and its neighbors only prolong the suffering in this country.

I met Alla by the metro stop and we made the long, very cold, walk to the memorial. Despite the wintry mix falling from the sky, the vast procession of those paying their respects was seemingly never ending. We bought red tulips and brought them to the center of the memorial. The mound of flowers that people had placed throughout the day was nearly as tall as me. There were funeral bouquets from countries all over the world and it was remarkable to hear people speaking in English.

We decided to go to the underground museum before walking back. As we stared at pictures of starving, naked and displaced Armenians all I could think of were the images I’ve seen of the prisoners of the WWII concentration camps. The haunting images only added to the pain of recognizing that this small country was once a powerful nation, spreading all the way to the Black Sea. Today, landlocked and struggling to survive with closed boarders and racial hatred, Armenia only wants recognition of the acts that were committed.

In the museum there is a case of proclamations memorializing the genocide made by governors and state politicians in America. I am not certain, but I’ve been told that 48 states have recognized the genocide. I understand that America is in a difficult position to stand up for Armenia, but I couldn’t help but take a picture of a sign on the side of the memorial that calls our nation to honesty.


It was cold cold cold (hence the bright red nose to match my jacket).





Monday, April 23, 2007

National & Global Youth Service Day

April 21-22 was National and Global Youth Service Day. Saturday we celebrated by cleaning up the field and planting trees where we hope to one day prepare a village playground/outdoor recreation center. Some pictures below help illustrate the event.


There is a class that the kids take called 'work'. The boys learn how to build and repair things and the girls learn how to cook and make crafts. I recruited some of the sixth form boys and later the fourth form wanted to help. When the bell rang they asked if they could come back after school and help some more. They showed up at 2 p.m. with gloves, bags, water and a flower for me.
It was an enthusiastic group.


When it was time to plant the trees this neighbor came down and showed us the right way to do things. Talk about community investment.
YCAP group 9th form students helped dig while we gathered buckets of water and measured out the field. Our friend stayed around to monitor the work for a few trees until the boys got the hang of it.
One of my favorite students (above right) took charge of the younger students (who he fondly referred to as his kindergartners). Here he is instructing the kids to gather rocks to make a ring around the baby trees. I'll admit, it was a nice touch.

Saturday, April 14, 2007

Happy Easter

I made the orange one


This is the "Easter lawn" I was describing in my last entry. The eggs aren't in it yet but you get the idea. The YCAP group had an Easter presentation at school and invited me to talk about our customs in America. I started with the Biblical significance of the holiday and moved into a description of the Easter bunny and egg hunting. We have some nice deviled egg dishes in our family but I must admit that the green is a lovely display for colored eggs. All it takes is a few weeks of watering.






I wanted to include more photographs of the Easter events last week but I've been lending my camera to one of the 10th graders (they're fascinated with digital) and he deleted the pictures from Easter dinner and egg hitting. I'll try to describe the traditions in detail until I can figure out if he created a CD of the pictures that I can use.


On Saturday night at 5 p.m. the Easter celebration started in the village. They told me that Easter is celebrated from 5p.m. Saturday until 5 p.m. Sunday and when I asked about the women going to the empty tomb on Easter morning they told me that that's just when they found the tomb, Jesus had actually already risen the night before. So we had a party at home with just the family. We ate: fish, potatoes, fried greens and egg, fried lavash with rice and dried fruit, fresh tomatoes and cucumbers, cheese and cabbage salad. The highlight for the kids was the hitting eggs game where you hold your hard boiled egg in your hand and tap the top of the opponents egg. Whoever holds the broken egg loses. I lost at both ends and on two sides (Sargis had a particularly sturdy egg).


On Sunday I made the trip to Khor Virap and had Easter dinner with a family in a nearby village. The bus stopped outside of the village and together we walked for about an hour to the church. It was a nice walk and it was exciting to see everyone making their way towards the church. When we arrived it was packed and women were selling packets of candles on the side of the road. Traditionally you're not allowed to burn candles that you buy outside the church in the church, but it was Easter so maybe they didn't notice. There was a tightrope walker, lots of people walking around with live chickens and a small band playing music. This is the regular spectical though, as I remember the same entertainment being there the last time we visited the church for a wedding.


We entered the church and listened to part of the service. They insisted I cover my head with a children's baseball cap and we tried to stand patiently as people came and went, talked and took photos. We lit candles and then left after communion. After church we went back to the family's house and had the same meal plus BBQ. It was nice to spend the day with the family.


April 21-22 is Earth day and National & Global Youth Service Day (http://www.ysa.org/nysd/). I'm going to try to mobilize the YCAP group to clean up the field and plant trees where we hope to build the community playground. It's hard to believe that today marks nine months at site. Time flies when you're having fun...






Saturday, April 07, 2007

Beauty, Motherhood and a little faith

On Palm Sunday I stopped at this church on my way through Yerevan to buy some fresh daffodils, these crowns and some of the branches they were selling (below). The crowns symbolize the one they put on Jesus before they crucified him. Apparently we are to keep it for 12 months (one month for every one of Jesus' disciples) and then in a year we should burn it.

The daffodils didn't symbolize anything-- just reminded me of home and brightened my bedroom.





Me delivering my poem. Do I look like I know what I'm saying? All I know is that it was about love.


Although yesterday was Good Friday, I didn’t have much of an opportunity to reflect on the day. This year Holy week coincides with the final week of women’s month. Today, April 7, is the conclusion of the festivities.

A little background: After the collapse of the Soviet Union celebrations of international women’s day were abandoned in Armenia. Instead, April 7 was introduced as state holiday of ‘Beauty and Motherhood.’ The new holiday immediately got popular among Armenians, as it commemorates one of the main holidays of Armenian Church, Annunciation. Today, people continue to celebrate women’s day on March 8 as well, so public discussion held on the topic of two Women’s Days in Armenia resulted in the recognition of Women’s Month (the time between March 8 and April 7).

To celebrate in the village, our event planner organized a community pagent. I was invited to attend and sing, but I refused to subject everyone to another episode of me singing on stage. We settled on reciting a poem in Armenian. While memorization and recitation is a common practice in the school and for Armenians in general, it did not come easy to me. I’ve been practicing my poem for a month now and was still scared of messing up (which I did). Fortunately, I made up for it by dancing all night and participating in one of the games. I like Armenian dancing better than American, and all I had to do to win the game was pair up with our gym teacher and eat an apple blindfolded. Sometimes the Armenians are very easy to please.

Towards the end of the night it was time for us to go around the room and provide a toast to the women and the holiday. Each table sent a representative to the front of the room to say a few words. By the time they reached our table (number 10) all of the common toasts had already been made (for health, blue skies, green paths, long life, everything good and kind, etc…). I leaned over to my friend and told her she should offer hope as our wish for the future of the women in the room. To me, it seemed like a good connection between the popular women’s holiday and rememberance of the risen Lord.

I colored eggs with 9a on Thursday and this morning they invited me to their women’s day party at school tonight. The Armenian’s are familiar with the egg coloring process, but they color hundreds and traditionally they’re only red (to symbolize Christ’s blood). A couple of weeks ago people started ‘planting’ lentils and other beans on wet cotton on platters and now they have small green yards for presenting the eggs. Tonight at our house we are going to prepare the traditional food: rice and raisins, fish and greens and then tomorrow I will pass out a little American plastic eggs and peeps to the kids. I’ve been using my lenten discipline (no sweets…except jam) to illustrate my faith and everyone is very excited about the prospect of indulging in ice cream and chocolate all day tomorrow. I understand the commercial Easter in Armenia, I hope to attend a traditional service tomorrow and see how the occasion is celebrated in the church.

Happy Easter all. He is Risen!

Saturday, March 31, 2007

Growing up

I had a heart to heart with Alla the other day about what her childhood was like in Armenia in the 1990s. Whereas I was studying in a warm, inviting elementary school, she would come to an unheated classroom for 10 minute lessons. It was just enough time for teachers to answer questions before assigning excessive homework to children. Basically homeschooling, all teachers could do was hope that students were assisted by parents in completing lessons at home. During the war, there weren't many people who didn't experience devastating loss of family members and loved ones. Whereas I would spend afternoons dancing and singing to Ace of Base in my backyard, she was not allowed to turn on the television or laugh out of respect for those grieving. I could walk into any room I wanted at any time and flip on a light to read, but Alla was encouraged to sit quietly and study by candlelight (only one per day because they never knew when they would run out of candles). Power was supplied to the village for one hour per day. My biggest fear was if I would get caught making homemade play dough in the kitchen, she grew up afraid that the Turks were going to come and take over the small village.

The most amazing thing about our lives, however, is that we turned out the same. I was showered with blessings, she had next to nothing. I was reprimanded for misbehaving, she was reprimanded for laughing and playing. We came from such different backgrounds, but we both want the same things for this village, this country and the world. I'm so thankful for Alla, her motivation, her unwavering hope and her desire to improve the life of others.

Friday, March 23, 2007



March 24

A few storks arrived early this year and have begun building their nests on top of the telephone poles in my village. Everything seems to be developing these days as the weather is warming up and people are starting to come out of winter hibernation. In my village people refer to March as ‘the stupid month’ because the weather changes day by day and there’s no way to know if tomorrow will be sunny and warm or windy and snowy. I don’t mind so much as long as the cold doesn’t stay for more than a few days (I don’t want our water supply to freeze again).

It’s back to ‘work’ as normal in the school as far as six periods and reliable scheduling is concerned. Classes are a little more focused and I’m already pestering my counterpart to consider how we’re going to get all of the lessons completed before the end of May. Since we only meet with each grade once per week I recently realized that we have less than 10 classes remaining and I started to panic.

On March 20, I went door-to-door hand delivering 33 small invitations to active community members for our focus group (take two). This process started a month ago and after a failed attempt on March 11th we finally figured out how to request attendance effectively and had more than 40 people attend our meeting on the 23rd.

It’s no wonder it took us two tries, nothing is the same as in America. I thought that working with an Armenian would help prevent cultural miscommunications, but Alla was equally as astonished when we planed the meeting, explained the funds available, gave people two weeks notice and still lacked a single attendee. After we recovered from the discouragement, I sat down with my counterpart and questioned my work in the village. “If my work in the school is less important than obtaining funding for a community project, and no one in the community shows up to support a community project, there must not be a need for a volunteer in this village,” I whined. “Don’t worry,” she said. “Everything will be fine.” I was getting pretty tired of hearing that everything would be fine so the next day Alla and I were sitting in the mayor’s office. He agreed with the school director that there was a need to obtain funding and I told him that if this was important for the village I was going to need assistance in rallying the troops. Two days latter the school director presenting me with a list of names and we created the paper invitations.

More than a month ago we distributed a survey to 120 community members. I wanted to involve our Youth Action Committee, so I called a meeting of the 8th-10th graders and 12 students showed up to learn about survey writing and distribution. With careful directions, we sent each student out with ten copies of the survey and instructions to target a specific audience. We wanted equal distribution of males and females from the age of ten to adulthood. They did a great job of returning a majority of the completed surveys and we were pleased with the fact that more than 50 villagers shared their name, contact information and willingness to assist us in our work. Unfortunately the students volunteered to distribute surveys, they didn’t agree to sit down and explain the project, the Peace Corps, me or the reasons for a meeting. I knew we would have the same problem if I let them distribute the invitations and I needed people to be aware of why they were being summoned to the school on a Wednesday afternoon (prime soap opera time).

Things I learned from the first failure:
Not everyone in the village has a phone. Some people wrote their relatives or neighbor’s phone number on the surveys we distributed. When Alla made the calls asking them to attend an organizational meeting most people had no idea why she was calling them or why they should come.
Sunday is a day of work in the village. We weren’t requesting the participation of teachers, and for the most part the only women who work out of the home are teachers. We assumed that a Sunday (for someone who is in the home every other day anyway) is a fine day for someone to spend an hour in the school. We were wrong. Even if you’re home every day, Sunday is particularly busy with hosting guests and students who are back in the village from Yerevan (where they study during the week) for the weekend.
Whereas it was too cold to work in the fields on the 10th of March, the weather on the 11th was warm and sunny and everyone decided to go into the field and check out the crops.
You do not invite anyone to do anything more than a week in advance. This was the greatest shock to me. It doesn’t matter the occasion. Even wedding invitations are only sent out with a weeks notice. The fact that we were having a meeting meant that we should demand participation (make it sound important enough for them to drop their previous plans) the day before.
If you want people to do something, get their autograph. My school director informed me that if people sign their name to something it means that they are making a commitment. She told us to prepare a list of the invitee’s names and take it with us when we distribute invitations. If they plan to come have them sign and write down their phone number. If they can’t make it don’t let them sign the paper.

So, after school, a fifth grade presentation on the Armenian army’s 15th anniversary and the 9b vs. 10a basketball tournament I set out with two students to distribute the invitations. They weren’t organized and could care less about the process so we walked from house to house, up and down the village from 3:30 p.m. to 7:45 p.m. I didn’t mind all this walking because with each invitee I was able to explain the purpose of the meeting, get their signature and introduce myself (even though everyone already seems to know who I am).

The result was excellent attendance on the 21st. Even people we didn’t invite came to offer their ideas. The meeting was a little bit like my classroom (rowdy and noisy) but I realized that these people are just passionate. After having them work in small groups to brainstorm the communities greatest priorities (a new practice they did not enjoy much at all), we called for five of the top suggestions and created a voting matrix on my chalkboard. The votes went in favor of a renovated football stadium (we have a dirt field currently, I think they were envisioning the horseshoe) and people went crazy when I admitted to them that their vote had spoken and this was what they’d chosen to work on. One of the older males called for a smoke break and we came back a little more focused on the reasonability and urgency aspects of the project. After wiping the football project from the vote completely they almost unanimously agreed to call for a playground/workout center for the village. I agree that this is project will meet a great need and will be beneficial for all age groups. In addition to playground equipment I would like to add exercise stations for older youth and adults and benches or tables for the tatiks and papiks (grandmas and grandpas) to sit and play nardi (backgammon) or chess. People of all ages already gather in the dusty streets to socialize, why not create a central, safe location for community activities?

Although this work is just beginning, Alla and I are activity pursuing our summer green camp for 11 to 13-year-olds. We’ve secured a volunteer to be our camp cook (by far the hardest and messiest job) and we are currently recruiting counselors by posting flyers by the village stores. We hope to have an organizational meeting for interested volunteers on March 31st.

Please keep Alla in your prayers. I don’t know what I would do without this engaging, active and passionate new Armenian friend.

Friday, March 02, 2007

Oscarlita

It was white wine...that little bruise is from one of her brothers or sisters...siblings can be so pushy.

Thursday, March 01, 2007

Peace Corps Purpose

Please note that this entry (and all entries) is my individual viewpoint and does not express the views of the Peace Corps organization as a whole.

A very dear friend recently wrote me: "I don't know much about Peace Corps, but I feel like the desire to change the world by 'sharing superior American knowledge' may be the most common reason for people to apply. This motivation would make severe frustration inevitable. It is a pretty simplistic way to describe it, but is this accurate? I would guess the Peace Corps works to avoid the colonial dynamic of how exterior help to a community automatically implies the posture of 'inferior group depends on help from superior group'...building relationships and learning from cultures is very important. The part about change, however, seems like the goal is still colonial-style rearranging of values, but using community lubrication...I feel that social change is strongest when it comes from within the affected group, empowering instead of receiving the charity."

He was very correct when he mentioned empowerment. Fortunately, I am in just the right position to empower because I am so under qualified to make anything change by myself. Had I been placed in a role where I did have 'superior knowledge' my answer to his position would probably be different, but if you've followed any of my entries you realize that much of what is asked of me in my primary assignment is completely foreign to anything I've done in the past. I often feel less than prepared for what I wish I could accomplish. When I turn away from my own skills, however, and really pay attention to those in my community that I see ways they can accomplish things I could never do on my own.

I guess a good example of this is the recent community questionnaire we created to gauge interest/investment in a possible grant opportunity. In college we worked on evaluation and survey methods so I was prepared to write the questions, but not as equipped to figure out distribution and data collection. By seeking the help of engaged students in our Youth Action Club I was able to 'empower' 12 students to go out themselves and gather the information we will need to write a project proposal. I guess the question is: would these kids have prepared the project, written the survey and gathered the information on their own? Maybe they would have, but I'm here, and as a volunteer I'm willing to invest the time and a different perspective into the projects that we begin.

I look at my role in the classroom and I think about how I was when I was in school. Any opportunity we had to listen to a guest speaker or an assembly presentation was a treat. For me, people from different backgrounds who have taken the time to talk to me about their experiences and knowledge have always been inspiring and more entertaining than the everyday norm. Isn't this what makes talk shows entertaining? It's not necessarily the host that people tune in for (unless it's Ellen), but the guests that they interview. This is how I see the role I’m in as a teacher in a foreign country. It’s not my role to tell people to change (my Armenian counterpart does the instructing), but instead to offer experience and evidence that points to a new idea that they might not otherwise be introduced to.

Yerevan is an active city. This Friday I hope to attend a conference sponsored by the Coalition for Tobacco Free Armenia, initiated by the Armenian Public Health Alliance and supported by the Open Society Institute Assistance Foundation. The work was prepared by Armenians but there’s a gap in distribution. Many people in the villages could benefit from resources and information available to people in the city, but they aren’t aware of what’s happening. As a volunteer here I have the time and finances to make the trip to the conference and bring back information that the Armenians are preparing themselves. I’m simply a liaison.

The ‘rearranging of values’ comment directly applies to my work. Armenians do value health, almost as much as they value religion…at least that’s what they say. Go to any party, wedding or relative’s house and if there are Armenian’s toasting it is “to the most important thing: Health”. Unfortunately, the Soviet mindset of treatment over prevention remains prevalent in the lives of the adults in society. We know, however, that many of the health problems Armenians are suffering from (the same as Americans) are relatively preventable. It’s not changing the values of the public; it’s about helping the public recognize how they can live to realize their values.

Change isn’t easy anywhere and it doesn’t happen overnight. We are all very well aware of the negative effects of smoking, but when the research first came out did cigarette sales cease? We needed someone to tell us, “look, you value your health, what you’re doing is causing health problems”. The same goes for preventing diseases in America. If no one ever told me that there is information available about ways I can take care of my skin I would probably continue to sit in the sun for hours on end and not wear sunscreen (the old lifestyle is fun, the old lifestyle is easy). Someone gave me the information, a ‘charity’ I suppose, but ultimately it is my decision of whether or not I want to accept what’s given and change my lifestyle or continue living the way I did before I had the information/resources.

Lastly, my mom knows about what is good and what is bad for my health. Likewise, there’s a good chance that the Armenians are aware of the health information I am bringing from the states. But when my mom told me to wear sunscreen and not to sit out in the sun all day did I listen? No. It took a friend, an outsider, someone who was completely objective to say: “You know your nose gets really pink every time you’re out in the sun. It’s not attractive and there’s ways you can prevent that.” before I made the behavior change. Maybe I can be that outsider. With respect, care and shared values maybe I can reach the people I work with.

Friday, February 23, 2007

Gender awareness

Today is a holiday for males in Armenia. The students celebrate in school by buying gifts for all of the boys in their class. It's not like on Valentine's Day in America when you only buy for the one you like most, here everyone gets a present. This seems like a good idea, in Hermine's seventh grade class all of the girls contributed 400 dram ($1.50) and then went to the store together to pick out a present for their classmates. But then I asked Sargis what would happen in his class, where there are 21 boys and only five girls; it seems that the holiday becomes quite a burden in the 6a classroom.

Earlier this week a new litter of pigs were born in our household. Eleven total, the last one and smallest had a difficult entry into the world. On Wednesday we brought him inside the house so that he could stay warm and get strong apart from all his brothers and sisters. It seems they're all very feisty and one of them stepped on his ear. At first he couldn't even stand and they were feeding him with a bottle. He spent two nights sleeping in a cardboard box next to the wood burner. They filled up the mini wine bottle I brought back from my AirFrance flight with hot water and he would sleep on top of it for warmth. I got pretty jealous of little Oscar (they were showing a commercial for the award event when I was asked to choose a name), he looked warm in that little box. It was fun for a few days to wake up and come downstairs to the little snorting pet, but he got rambunctious and was sent back to the pen with the rest of the piglets. Yesterday someone came to buy a pig and much to our dismay we learned that Oscar is in fact a girl. We changed her name to Oscarita and the problem was solved, but now I guess she won't get to celebrate today's holiday.

Monday, February 12, 2007

A SPA

To PCVs a SPA doesn't mean relaxation but Small Project Assistance grant writing. I spent the majority of last week learning about how to effectively write project proposals with the people in my village. People used to always ask me, 'so, what exactly do you do with an organizational communications major?' I guess this is it. Although the process of identifying a need/priority in the community, planning, proposal writing, implementing, record keeping, monitoring and evaluation is all very familiar, it was exciting to see my counterpart light up at the work that goes into project development. She's young and enthusiastic and I am excited about the work that we have ahead of us.

We've drafted a community questionaire and recruited students from the youth action club to distribute them door-to-door. I would do it myself, but I can't go anywhere in the village without being invited in for an hour conversation and a cup of coffee.

Before I was most intimidated by the fact that a lot of what I wanted to do was not community initiated and I didn't feel that I could effectively build capacity alone. It's exciting to see, however, that once one person buys into your plans or ideas how others begin to follow. Now that I've got an engaged counterpart (an 'in') I'm hopeful about the potential for our work.

Friday, February 02, 2007

It's winter here.

I would like to sincerely apologize if we didn’t get to spend time together while I was home. The purpose of my trip was to spend time with my family and it didn’t leave a lot of time for visiting. America is a great place though, and I hope you are all enjoying the new year. Although I was in Ohio for less than two weeks, I was able to enjoy a burrito, a Graeter’s raspberry chocolate chip cone, Chinese food, sushi, Aunt Dee’s cherry cheesecake, dry cleaning (but better yet a washing machine inside the house), hot showers, running water, central heating, possession of a car, a credit card and access to Target (via the car). I’m embarrassed that the list begins with all of the food I got to indulge in, but what can I say? Columbus has some really great restaurants. Don’t take these things or the people who you enjoy them with for granted. I can honestly say this appreciation for America and the people in it is strongest as I write this blog entry from a computer on the other side of the world.

I got a hearty welcome from Mother Nature when I got back last Monday. It snowed about six inches and interestingly enough the snow plows didn’t show up in the village. For some reason, I came back and forgot where I was and proceeded to brush my teeth in the sink only to realize (after none of my spit was draining) that the pipes were frozen all the way through. I stood staring at my orange toothpaste just floating in the frozen water for at least ten minutes trying to decide if maybe some pouring some boiling water in the basin would thaw it out. I was informed that the only way to solve my problem was to take a cup and throw the water down the drain in the floor (thank goodness the ground doesn’t freeze). The kids wanted to know what was wrong with my mouth (they’d never seen someone foam orange) and I explained that it was my new “Amerikakan” Aquafresh toothpaste. They weren’t impressed. I have since learned to brush my teeth and wash my face in a squatting position above the drain.

At home people wanted to know what the weather is like here. It’s cold. It’s so cold that the toilet bowl water freezes. It’s so cold that my 10-year-old nephew and I write love notes to each other in the ice growing on the bathroom wall. The school is so cold that the day starts at 11 a.m. and ends at 3:15 p.m. because we can’t heat the classrooms. The students go to each class for 20 minutes. I guess you don’t actually have to show up right now because our ninth grade class last week had 10 students (and this isn’t Capital there are supposed to be at least 26 in the class) and my eighth grade class had seven. We sat around and talked about stress (the topic of the lesson) but the short conversation turned to HIV/AIDS after only five minutes and we never got back on track. I asked my counterpart what would happen to the classes/lessons if students didn’t show up and she said that she would review when we began a regular routine again. Although I don’t know when that will be I can’t understand the purpose of these classes…except to remind us how miserable being indoors can be. That’s what was most shocking to me in America. I could hop out of my warm bed, shower in a warm bathroom, get dressed in a warm bedroom, leave the house through a garage (which, incidentally is probably is the same temperature as my bedroom here) and sit in a warm car, drive to a warm destination and the whole time never even know that it’s winter at all.

February 1st was Manuk’s 40th day of being alive (he was the boy born right before Christmas). After school I got home and my host sister had prepared lentil and pasta soup, bread and cheese for lunch. I ate in a hurry because she said that we had to go to Manuk’s party. I’m not sure of the significance of 40 days, but the minute she said party it occurred to me that I was going to be fed again as soon as we arrived. Party and BBQ are synonyms in Armenia. I asked if I shouldn’t eat a big lunch and they all said that I should, knowing full well I was going to go to my host sister’s house in less than 20 minutes. True to Armenian form, the minute we walked in the door I was pinched on my cheek, told I had gotten skinny in America and shoved to the table. Before I even sat my host sister and mother began piling my plate with spoonfuls of rice and a chicken leg. They poured me some liquor and a cup of juice and began to toast to my health, the baby’s health, our family’s health and the health of the whole world. I found the chicken leg to be chewy and covered in skin, but before I could complain I looked across the table and saw my host nephew gnawing on a chicken throat. I thought that was strange until I looked next to him at my other nephew trying to eat the skin between two chicken toes. I didn’t know there was meat on chicken feet! As it turns out there is, and my other host sister proved that when you devour it entirely all you’re left with are a few three inch long nails. I guess I was able to hide my surprise as I remembered my first host mother trying to force me to eat a cold pig’s ear last summer.

People have asked what I eat on a regular basis-meat isn’t it. Normally I have rice or barley or macaroni as a main dish, it is accompanied by cheese, bread, cabbage/carrot salad and juice. The food improves ten fold in the summer when there is a regular supply of fresh fruits and vegetables. Fortunately we often have apples for dessert. I keep a small stock of peanut butter and chocolate in my room but generally I stay pretty full and only use it for days when I’m traveling.

Fortunately, I’m able to ease back into my Armenian lifestyle. All of the A13s are meeting for a project design management workshop this week with our counterparts. I am bringing the chemistry teacher from school and we hope to learn how we can develop a plan for building a pool in the village...I’ll keep you updated.
If you look carefully, you'll see Mt. Ararat through the clouds in the background. It has two peaks. I also enjoy this photo for the outhouse conveniently situated in the backyard.

Two seconds earlier I was smiling and waving for the camera. My photographer was a bit delayed.


This mountain makes for a great hike in the summer--when the snow isn't up to your knees.




Sunday, January 14, 2007

Shnorhavor amanor yev Surb Tsnund!

This Zimer Papik couldn't tell me which marchutney went to my bus station so he decided to take me there himself. He summoned his 'sleigh' and I was there in no time. The Armenian's got a big kick out of the laughing American and the jolly Santa looking for a bus.

You're looking at a real live 'Snow Sweet'. The village event planner recruited me to pose as Santa's wife and sing Joy to the World and Jingle Bells to the community at our pagent yesterday. Those are my dancers behind me and that's the grand tree in front of me.


The Armenian New Years table. One of the 50 I visited this holiday season.


The label on this 'rocket' clearly states in English: "Do not hold in hand when lit. Place in ground and move a safe distance away." Nothing happened though, as 20 red, yellow and white fire balls flew out of the cardboard tube.